Imagine
that first bite of a sweet, succulent, ripe tomato picked fresh
from your garden. The warm juice runs down your chin as a delightful
explosion of flavour awakens dormant taste buds. In our harsh
climate fresh tomatoes can usually be enjoyed for only a few short
weeks of the year. Then it's back to artificially ripened,
flavourless
imports your grocer charges a small fortune for. Take heart, you
can savour the homegrown
tomato experience year round.
Tomatoes
grown hydroponically, indoors under lights, are equal to, or superior
in flavour and nutrition than their outdoor, soil grown counter-parts.
A tomato's sweetness and flavour is largely dependent on light
and temperature. The nutritional value of a
tomato is dependent on the
nutrition the plant receives while growing and producing fruit.
In the controlled environment of an indoor garden the plants exact
requirements can be met with artificial lighting, temperature
control and supplemental nutrition. This enables the grower to
enjoy a continuous harvest all year long without sacrificing taste
and goodness.
Hydroponics
is a pure, clean method of cultivation. For this reason
it is recommended you start your tomatoes directly from seed.
Bringing plants in from outside creates a potential for pest and
disease contamination. Start seeds in 1 inch rockwool starter
cubes in a standard nursery tray with dome. Rockwool cubes should
be pre-soaked in water adjusted to a pH of 4.5 prior to planting.
Keep covered tray in a moist, warm (20-25oC) environment
until seedlings begin to sprout. Once vegetation appears, immediately
move the seedling into a light source, metal halide or fluorescent
lights, for at least 12 hours per day and remove domes. Failure
to provide light soon enough will cause seedlings to bolt in search
of a light source. Ensure roots are never exposed to the light
as this will cause damage and death to the roots and delay plant
growth.
Once
true leaves appear and roots are showing through the bottom of
the starter cubes usually around 10 - 14 days, seedlings are
ready to be transplanted to their hydroponic
garden. There are several different hydroponic methods used for
cultivating tomatoes indoors. Space
restrictions, type of tomato and plant size all have to be considered
when choosing a system.
The
most common method employed for large plants is the drip irrigation
system. In this fully automated, re-circulating system nutrient
solution is pumped from a reservoir, fed to the plants through
drip emitters and allowed to drain back to the reservoir by gravity.
In order to create gravity flow the grow unit must be placed higher
than the nutrient reservoir. The nutrient is continuously circulated
during light-on hours. For the home hobbyist we recommend using
the expando system. This consists of an individual pot for each
plant, linked to the nutrient reservoir by 1/2" tubing.
Heydite, small, reusable porous rocks, are used as the growing
medium providing excellent aeration to the roots. The 1 inch
cube containing the seedling is transplanted directly into the
pot and covered with heydite. The constant feeding allows the
root system to develop in minimum space resulting in higher yields.
Drip irrigation
can also be done with rockwool, a technique favoured by commercial
growers. The starter cube and seedling are placed in the pre
made hole of a 3 or 4 inch rockwool cube which is placed on slabs
of rockwool in a trough. The roots will grow down through the
cubes and into the slabs. The troughs should be slightly wider
than the slabs to allow room for the nutrient solution to drain
back to the reservoir. Tomato
plants should be spaced about 10 to 12 inches apart or
4 plants per slab.
With
both techniques the size of reservoir and pump will be determined
by the number of plants. Irrigation will need adjusting as the
plants grow, allow for four liters of nutrient solution per day
for mature plants, smaller seedlings will consume less. The nutrient
reservoir should be changed once a week. Choose a pump with a
high enough gallons per hour rating to adequately reach the plants
farthest from the reservoir. Emitters can become clogged with
salts from the nutrient solution and should be watched closely
and cleaned when necessary.
Ebb
and flow or flood and drain tables are another excellent method
used for cultivating tomatoes.
Tables range in size from 1' X 2' to 4' X 8' and can accommodate
many plants in a small area. For cherry tomatoes or smaller
determinate varieties deep water culture may be used. Complete
hydroponic gardens sold as kits are usually deep water
culture and available in many shapes and sizes and are excellent
for the novice hydroponic gardener.
No
matter what technique you choose there are several growth influencing
factors (GIFs) to consider. The most important GIF is light. Artificial
metal halide light can simulate full summer sunlight when daylight
is at it longest. At maturity tomato plants require a 16-18 hour
photo-period to ensure maximum fruit production and an 8 hour
respiration period of total darkness. Gradually introduce your
plants to higher light levels by moving the bulb closer to the
plants by an inch or two every few days.
pH
is the measure of alkalinity or acidity of the nutrient solution
and is another very important GIF. If pH levels are not maintained
at the appropriate level (pH 5.8 - 6.3 for tomatoes) nutrient
deficiencies and toxicity will occur. Even seemingly small fluctuations
in pH levels can result in inferior nutrient uptake by the plant.
pH will need to be adjusted up or down based on the original reading
of your water source. Potassium hydroxide will raise pH while
phosphoric acid will decrease pH levels. Both products are available
at your local hydroponic retail store. pH can be influenced by
other factors and must be monitored regularly and adjusted as
necessary.
Electrical
conductivity (EC), measured in milliMhos, is the measure of electrical
conductance of the total dissolved solutes (minerals) in the solution.
The optimum EC range for tomatoes is 2.0 to 3.5 milliMhos. While
EC measures the total dissolved minerals in a solution it does
not identify the amounts of specific elements present. Therefore,
it is easier to achieve the ideal EC using premixed 2-part hydroponic
nutrient formulations than attempting to create your own formula
using individual components.
Temperature
is also an important GIF however, it is quite easily controlled.
Tomatoes, like most plants grow best with a day/night temperature
differential based on light or daytime perception. When there
is light the plant considers it daytime and the temperature should
be adjusted accordingly. The ideal daytime temperature for mature
tomato plants bearing fruit is 18 - 25oC and nighttime
is 12 - 18oC. An independent thermostat should be
placed among your plants to ensure temperature regulation. An
exhaust fan will help control temperature and provide air exchange.
Plant
nutrition is the basis for hydroponics and holds the key to the
nutritional quality of your tomatoes. There are a wealth of pre-mixed
nutrients available, however when determining which nutrient to
use, look for a product that is especially formulated for hydroponic
use. A 2-part formula will eliminate binding, solidification
and waste of mineral elements, which occurs with ordinary 1-part
plant foods.
Close
observation of any changes are critical when growing
hydroponic tomatoes. Early diagnosis and adjustment of
nutritional disorders is crucial as they rapidly increase in severity
and spread quickly.
·
Check the colour of the leaves; yellow leaves may indicate that
the nutrient solution isn't strong enough or pH is too high, locking
out nitrogen - leach and change the solution.
·
Leaf tips curl up or red stem may indicate a magnesium deficiency
caused by too low a pH - leach and change solution
·
Leaf tips curling under may mean the nutrient level is too high
- add pH 6.0 water
·
A potassium deficiency my cause flowers to fall off before setting
fruit - leach and change solution.
·
Blossom-end-rot caused by too much water puddling in the root
zone will create a calcium deficiency - leach and foliar spray
with a calcium nitrate solution.
Leaching
should be done at every reservoir change to avoid encountering
problems. This will rid the growing medium and root zone of toxic
salt build up. To leach, rinse the root zone with straight pH
balanced water. Use twice as much liquid as the
hydroponic container would
have held when empty.
These
are some basic nutritional disorders however, they are easily
avoided by using a good 2-part fertilizer, maintaining a correct
pH and changing your solution regularly.
Tomatoes
are pollinated outdoors by the wind, bees and other insects which
carry the male pollen to the female part of the flower (stigma.)
Indoors pollination must be performed manually by the grower.
This can easily be accomplished using a small paint brush or q-tip
to transfer the pollen. Simply dab the brush or q-tip on the
stigma of each flower. This is best done daily over a period
of several days when the flowers indicate their readiness to receive
fertilization by bending their petals back and exposing the stigma.
Tomato
plants are quite brittle and require gentle handling when pruning
and staking. Use plastic twine or a plant yo-yo to encourage and
support vertical growth and bear the weight of the fruit. Removing
side shoots and suckers that grow between the main stem and leaf
stems will further help train with vertical growth and eliminate
unnecessary distribution of nutrients. Suckers should be gently
broken off at their base by hand. Avoid the use of knives or
scissors which can transfer diseases from plant to plant. As
plants begin to produce fruit the bottom leaves will start to
yellow and dry out. Remove these leaves at the main stem of the
plant to allow air flow and to prevent disease and infection.
A
little bit of knowledge and patience will produce infinite rewards
in hydroponic
gardening. That first bite of juicy August tomato in the
middle of January will be your stepping stone to a culinary adventure.
Harvest all of summer's pleasures indoors year round hydroponically,
the homegrown way.
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