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early spring I love to plan my gardens as I wait anxiously for the
last signs of frost. Even before the all clear is given, I eagerly
purchase hanging pots overflowing with mixtures of colourful annuals,
patio containers of exotic flowering tropicals and unique clay pots
filled with assorted fragrant herbs. With the slightest threat
of frost in the air I carefully move all my vulnerable (and expensive)
arrangements to the safety of the garage. The next morning if
the coast is clear, I replace them in their allocated spots. No
corner, nook or cranny in my garden shall be left barren.
Nurseries,
grocery stores and even hardware stores have all tapped into this
annual multi-million dollar container gardening frenzy. Outdoor
structures are erected to display a dazzling assortment of hanging
baskets, urns and window boxes filled with artistic combinations
of showy blooms and textured foliage. The most reluctant gardeners
will be tempted to purchase one or two of these spectacular floral
arrays.
Flowering
containers strategically placed around the home and yard add beauty
and drama to otherwise dull areas. Sales clerks guarantee that
daily watering and regular nutrient feeding will ensure plants remain
healthy with vigorous floral growth. Little maintenance is required
to keep them lush and flowering throughout the entire season.
My
annual pledge: I am dedicated to my garden. I will water
my containers every day! I will fertilize regularly! The $500.00
I spent on annuals will not be wasted!
Yeah.right!
Every
year I pledge these exact words determined and committed to nurture
my plants and provide them with the necessities of life. Every
year, by mid July, my precious arrangements are dried up, spindly
versions of their former selves. As the summer heat intensifies
my enthusiasm diminishes. A long hot weekend of unintentional neglect
and my containers already look ravished. A good soaking perks them
up and they look almost as good as new. Unfortunately there are
many such negligent periods over the course of the summer which
reek total and irreparable damage to my container plants. By summer
holidays their chances of survival were almost nil.
I
found a solution that was surprisingly easy, effective and inexpensive!
I set up all my containers on a simple, homemade irrigation system.
No plumber or electrician; I did it all myself and it was a cinch!
A reservoir, a timer, a small submersible pump, some tubing and
a few fittings to hold it all together were all that I used. I
can now neglect my plants for a couple of weeks without concern!
For
many years I've witnessed growers using the 'drip emitter system'
for their hydroponic crop production. It is the continuous feed
method preferred by many commercial growers. It hadn't occurred
to me until recently that I could incorporate this hydroponic technology
into my soil gardening practices. All the equipment I've used is
available for under $100.00 at any hydroponic retail outlet. It
should last for years and can easily be modified to suit changes.
For
a two week period I use a minimum of 1 gallon of water per plant
container (4 litres) (This is based on a 3 gallon plastic hanging
basket of annuals.) I use a square 15 gallon reservoir because
it is manageable and fits inconspicuously into a corner in my garden.
A decorative rain barrel would also work well but do not allow the
water to stand and become stagnant. The reservoir or rain barrel
should be covered to keep out breeding mosquitoes and minimize evapouration.
Keeping a lid on the reservoir will also discourage the growth
of slimy algae, which may damage your pump.
A
small submersible pump should be adequate to reach most of the
plants in your yard. Submersible pumps are available in a range
of sizes, the higher the GPH (Gallons per Hour) rating the more
plants it can serve and the greater distance the water can be pumped.
The pump has an outlet designed to fit ˝ inch tubing. Attach tubing,
running enough along the ground to reach the furthest plants. Each
container will feed off this main line via a smaller tube. Tubing
is quite inexpensive so allow for enough to discreetly tuck and
hide it wherever possible. Use an end-plug at the end of the tube
to block waterflow. Black or opaque tube will work best as it is
less susceptible to algae growth which may cause clogging.
With
a small device called an emitter punch or a 1/8"drill bit puncture
or drill holes for the feeder tube at the approximate location of
each planter. Insert a transfer barb into the hole and attach enough
of the feeder or emitter tube to reach each planter. The feeder
or emitter tube is a thin (1/8") and flexible line that unobtrusively
reaches planters or hanging baskets. Insert an emitter stake into
the soil of each planter and attach the feeder tube. Emitter stakes
are available in 2 sizes, ˝ gallon per hour or 1 gallon per hour
format. This will allow you to regulate the flow of water to individual
plants supplied by the same ˝ inch tube.
The
submersible pump should be attached to a timer to come on for about
15 minutes a day or shorter or longer as required. The amount of
on time will vary based on the distance the water must travel, the
number of containers being served and the format of emitter stake
used. Watch carefully for the first few days to make sure that
all containers are receiving an adequate amount of water without
over-watering.
More
than one pump may be used in one reservoir to feed plants from another
line. Make sure there is always enough water to keep the pumps
submerged. Running the pumps dry will quickly burn out the motor.
Every
two weeks, hand water the containers with a nutrient solution designed
for flowering plants. I don't recommend continuous drip feed of
nutrients as it will over fertilize most annuals. A good quality
liquid 2-part nutrient used at ˝ strength is an excellent feeding
option as it provides all the nutritional requirements to build
robust new buds and healthy floral growth. Once every couple of
weeks, change the water in the reservoir or top up with fresh water
as required.
This
method can also be employed in a small vegetable garden or flower
bed to subsidize a regular watering schedule. If you have access
to a small pond or lake it could be used for all your gardens water
requirements.
I
have also used the new Nutron containers in my garden. These are
self watering pots manufactured from durable plastic designed to
withstand the elements. Nutrons are an effective, passive system
whereby plants receive water that is wicked from the self contained
reservoir. The new range of colours and styles have made these
self watering pots an interesting addition to my garden. They are
available as hanging pots, window boxes even as pedestal planters
and of course the regular floor pots. I find them especially useful
for out of the way or shady areas where evapouration is not so much
of a problem. Self watering pots are excellent for plants you wish
to move around or bring indoors during the winter months.
Your
arrangements will need to be transplanted into the self watering
pots. Carefully remove the entire root ball and all its surrounding
earth from the existing pot. Spread a thin layer of pre-dampened
potting soil or soilless mix on the bottom of the nutron pot. Place
the root ball and surrounding earth into the pot and top up with
more damp potting soil. Slowly top water the plant until the bottom
reservoir is full. This should keep the plant moist for a week
or two.
My
philosophy is to enjoy life to its fullest with a minimal amount
of work. Automating the feeding of my planters has given me time
to enjoy my garden and the confidence of knowing it will remain
healthy even when I'm not around.

All
the materials mentioned in this article are available at your local
Hydroponic retailer.
Here
is a list of materials to automate your garden:

Submersible Pump
Outdoor Timer
Emitter Punch or 1/8"
Drill Bit
˝" Tubing
End Plug
Feeder or Emitter tubing
Transfer Barbs (one per
plant)
Emitter Stake (one per
plant)
Reservoir

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